English subtitles for clip: File:Tutoriel - S'encorder sur un glacier et anneaux de buste - École de glace -2.webm

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Hi mountaineers, when you walk on a glacier,

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you have to...

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rope yourself!

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And yes, you also have to tie a

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harness, because often the rope is quite long

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and you don't use the whole rope between

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2 or 3 people, it depends on how

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many you are.

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And today, we're doing a little video in

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partnership with the guides of the Ecrins, and

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we're explaining to you, or rather Johan, mountaineering

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guide, we're explaining to you how to rope

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yourself on a glacier and how to tie

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a harness.

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See you in a bit!

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So guys, we're on the glacier, who says

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glacier says Baudrillé, so rope, the crampons and

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the piolet.

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We'll put the helmet a little further, when

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the slope will straighten up, we're on the

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glacier plate.

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So, the necessary equipment for the glacier.

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Obligatorily, a pulley, traction pulley, it's a pulley

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that slides only in one direction.

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It's a normal pulley, on which we have

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associated a mechanical blocker, which will serve as

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a camouflage head.

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We'll see the camouflage a little later.

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Then I have a brooch on each side.

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On the glacier, the brooch, when we're on

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the glacier, we remove all the protections.

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In fact, the protections are good when we

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walk on the trail or in the backpack,

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so that it doesn't freeze.

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But once we're on the glacier, the protections

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are removed, the little nets, the little plugs.

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It's a safety element, you have to be

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fast enough, so if we have to remove

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all that while we're in the speed of

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the action, it's not necessarily good.

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Then, on the glacier, I have a strap

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on each side, a brooch on each side,

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a strap on each side, the pulley and

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a small mechanical blocker.

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There are different types.

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We have T-blocks, Ropeman, or other brands.

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I chose to have this one.

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It will allow us to make the return

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on the rope to be able to camouflage.

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And I have another one on my shoulder

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strap.

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I have a zero-volt hook at the

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bottom of the bag and a small piece

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of cord to make a mobile stem.

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And that's all.

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You have to have this necessary strip for

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the glacier, it's mandatory.

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On the slope, a unidirectional carabiner or two

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carabiners in quincunx.

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It's lighter.

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We didn't go to the shelter.

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We try to have the lightest material possible.

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So a single unidirectional carabiner is great.

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To tie me up, I tie me up

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at the end of the rope with a

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knot of 8 by taking the two loops

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of the rope.

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Is the knot of 8 good for you,

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Elliot?

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Yes.

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It's good to check each other.

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The knot of 8, how do you climb

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it?

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You put it closest to the carabiner.

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There you go.

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Now we're going to make a rope, all

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three of us, with Elliot and Philippe.

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Now we have 30 meters of rope.

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We are three.

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We're going to put about 10 meters of

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rope between each member of the rope.

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That means we're going to need about 20

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meters of rope.

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So we have 10 meters of rope, which

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for the moment will be useless.

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So with Elliot, we're going to be able

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to tie the two loops of the carabiner.

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With the two loops of the carabiner, we

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hold the rope at the level of the

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knot there and we're going to pass it

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behind the head.

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I'll let you move forward a little bit.

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So we're going to spread the rope a

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little bit to see.

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We're going to leave it to Philippe.

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We're going to be pretty good there.

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Release a ring, maybe.

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If we want to find exactly the middle

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of the rope, we'll be able to do

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it like this, between the two of us.

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And there we have our middle of the

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rope, which is here.

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So Philippe, you have your rope there.

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Wait a second.

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Now that we're here, you're going to be

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able to put your arm inside the carabiner.

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OK.

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There, you're good.

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Now, we're not tied yet.

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If there's a fall or something, it's going

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to pull the carabiner like that.

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So we have to tie it to the

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branch.

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So there are several solutions.

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Either we lock the carabiner rings to the

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carabiner, or we don't lock them on it.

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So the goal, if we don't lock the

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rings, is to hook the rope to the

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carabiner.

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I can do a cabestan.

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OK.

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And hook it like that, and of course

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close the little screw.

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There, I'm tied.

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That's just right.

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If we don't know how to do the

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cabestan, we can do a cow tail or

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an eight knot.

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I'm doing a little cow tail.

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There.

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And I'm tying here, always closing the screw.

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There too, I'm tied.

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OK.

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Now, if I decide to lock the carabiner

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rings, I'm going to go in.

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I'm going to take my rope like that,

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I fold it in half.

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I put it in the carabiner rings, as

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well as in the cow tail.

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The cow tail is the central ring.

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OK.

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So, with my teeth, I just...

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When it doesn't work...

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There.

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And now, two solutions.

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Either I do a chair knot, OK?

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You have to learn how to do a

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chair knot.

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And there, the little loop, I lock it

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in my unidirectional carabiner, always locking the little

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screw.

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There, I'm tied.

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Look.

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Otherwise, I can just do a stop knot,

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in fact, that is to say, turn around

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this arm like this and

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hook the little end of the rope, the

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loop, to the carabiner.

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The advantage of locking the rings, if I

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have to remove my backpack, I remove my

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rings, I remove my backpack, and I can

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get them back.

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OK?

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If you don't lock the rings, they tend

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to move a little, to loosen up.

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OK?

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The disadvantage of locking the rings is that

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if we have to change the length of

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the rope, because there is a too long

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crevasse or a small rocky passage, we will

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have to undo all these knots and then

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redo them again.

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OK?

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So it's up to everyone.

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Everyone decides whether to lock the rings or

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not.

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OK?

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Same for the knot of the rope, it's

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up to you to see which one you

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choose.

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It's up to everyone too.

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OK?

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Then, for our friend Philippe, who will tie

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the rope between the two of us, we

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will have two solutions.

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Either we will make him a mobile stem

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or a fixed stem.

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So Elliot, if you want to move forward

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a little bit, like that, we will see.

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You saw, we will leave about ten meters

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between each member.

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So there, I can make him a fixed

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stem.

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OK?

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It's a cow tail, like that.

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And I can add a little cabestan or

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not, it's not mandatory.

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I like it when it's clean and it

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doesn't slip on the carabiner.

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There, we lock it.

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The advantage of the stem is not to

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make a knot directly on the cabestan, it's

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that when Elliot will pull the rope over

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there, you saw, Philippe is not necessarily solicited,

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it leaves him a small gap of 40

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cm forward and backward.

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So he has a gap of 80 cm.

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on the rope.

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It prevents him from being pulled either forward

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or backward.

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The stem should not be too low.

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If I make it a little bit too

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low, he will walk on it.

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The mistake not to make is to have

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the stem here.

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You saw, he puts his feet in it.

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OK?

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The stem must reach half-thigh, even to

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the maximum knee.

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It must not go too low, otherwise it

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will really disturb him for his progression.

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I leave it, you see, about 30 cm.

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So there, we have a fixed stem.

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We can do it differently.

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We can make a mobile stem thanks to

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a cord.

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Hold the rope like that.

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I will show you how to make the

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knot.

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I will turn the knot 7 times around

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the rope.

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And we are good.

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The 7th is there.

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And I put the arm in the one

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below.

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And I put my cord in my unidirectional

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carabiner.

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There, it will allow Philippe, go ahead, stretch

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the rope a little, Elliot, to be able

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to move along the rope.

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If we have a crevasse to pass, Elliot

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will be able to pass it.

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Look, go ahead, Elliot.

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And simply holding the macha, go ahead, pull

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on the rope.

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You saw, the rope, it runs in the

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knot.

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Once Elliot has passed, I stretch the rope,

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you take your knot, and you walk along

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the rope with it.

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You saw, that's the advantage of the mobile

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stem.

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Later, you will see, we will pass a

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lot of crevasses up there.

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We will try, one team will make a

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mobile stem, and our team will make a

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luxe stem, and you will see a little

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bit the advantages of that compared to the

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fixed stem.

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So it requires a little more material, you

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need an additional piece of cord.

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OK, guys?

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So we will keep the cord of 3,

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and you will make the cord of 2.

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OK?

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By choosing, it's you who choose, if you

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are going to block the rings, if you

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don't block them.

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And also by choosing, the stringing knot.

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Are you going to make a chair knot,

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are you going to make a stop knot,

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an eight knot, it's up to you.

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OK?

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Come on, it's rolling.

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Well, let's get ready and go.

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So guys, we have left the main track

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of the Glacier Blanc, we are going to

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head to the foot of the Glacier d

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'Arcine, we are going to make a small

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variant, a little bit stiffer than expected, so

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we can do some exercises.

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We are going to take small corridors, which

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are marked between the rocks on the left.

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It's going to be a slope of 30

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-35 degrees.

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So our stringing knot is not going to

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be adapted to the terrain we are going

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to encounter.

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The main risk that we had on the

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Glacier Blanc was the fall in crevasse.

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Now we are going to leave the glacier,

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we are going to enter the small corridor.

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The risk now is no longer the fall

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in crevasse, but it's going to be the

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slide.

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OK?

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So, as we said, you have to be

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stretched, it is easier to stretch a rope

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that is short than a rope that is

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long.

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So we are going to get closer to

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each other.

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So the advantage with the mobile stem is

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that to get closer, you just have to

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slide it.

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As you have seen, Eliott and Philippe will

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naturally get closer.

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We are going to put ourselves 2-3

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meters from each other.

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OK?

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So here I am, I'm going to tie

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myself up here.

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I made sure not to block my rings.

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That's it.

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Now we have brought the three members of

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the rope closer.

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And we are ready to go again.

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OK?

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We take the stem again.

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And we go.

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It works and we always evolve with a

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tight rope.

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Come on, let's go.

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I hope you enjoyed this video.

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It was made in partnership with the high

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mountain guides of the Ecrins.

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00:13:56,630 --> 00:13:58,630
Don't forget to download your two guides.

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00:13:58,630 --> 00:14:01,210
There is one on mountaineering that I concocted

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00:14:01,210 --> 00:14:01,350
for you.

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00:14:01,350 --> 00:14:02,730
8 races to start mountaineering.

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00:14:03,190 --> 00:14:05,490
And another on hiking skiing that will help

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00:14:05,490 --> 00:14:08,410
you become a little more autonomous in the

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00:14:08,410 --> 00:14:08,830
high mountains.

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00:14:09,050 --> 00:14:11,270
So they are just in the description right

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00:14:11,270 --> 00:14:11,550
there.

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00:14:12,130 --> 00:14:13,530
So download them.

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00:14:13,950 --> 00:14:14,910
It can help you.

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00:14:15,170 --> 00:14:17,590
And then I'll see you very soon in

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00:14:17,590 --> 00:14:18,090
the heights.

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00:14:18,870 --> 00:14:19,230
Subscribe.

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00:14:19,870 --> 00:14:20,150
Ciao ciao.