File:Detaljbild på knappar, Gustav II Adolfs älghudsskyller från Dirschau år 1627 - Livrustkammaren - 82399.tif

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Tröja.English: Doublet   (Wikidata search (Cirrus search) Wikidata query (SPARQL)  Create new Wikidata item based on this file)
Artist
Unknown authorUnknown author
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Title
Tröja.
English: Doublet
Original caption
Note: For documentary purposes the original description has been retained. Factual corrections and alternative descriptions are encouraged separately from the original description.
Detaljbild på knappar, Gustav II Adolfs älghudsskyller från Dirschau år 1627 - LRK 31193
Nyckelord: Knappar, Knapphål, Siden, Detalj, 1600-tal, Föremålsbild, Herrmode
Description
Svenska: Avskuren i midjan med skört och axelkarmar, ursprungligen i gråvit atlas garnerad med silvergaloner och silvertrådsknappar, fodrad med vit taft. Atlasen var mönsterstucken med små hål på alla ytor.

Längd mitt fram: liv 40,5 cm, skört 19,5 cm.
Bröstvidd: 100 cm.
Längd mitt bak: liv 40 cm, skört 18 cm.
Ryggbredd: 45 cm.
Midja: 99 cm.
Längd sida: liv 13,7 cm, skört 18,2 cm.
Axel: 16,3 cm.
Ärmlängd: 64 cm, största vidd 40,5 cm, 24,5 cm ärmvidd nedtill, 15 cm ärmsprund.
Krage: 52 cm längd, 5 cm höjd.
Ärmsprund: 20,5 cm.

Tröjans ståkrage som är är gjord av tre lager linne med ett lager näver mellan varje och sedan klädd med ny atlas från konserveringen 1978. Kragen har två silverbandsöglor i vänster framkant samt två silvergaloner runt över- och nederkant. Kragen har en nummerlapp, baksidan av ett spelkort, 4 x 2,8 cm. Ned brunt bläck är skrivet N 4 "kong Gustav Adolphs atlaströja". På tröjans insida från midjan och 26 cm upp; ligger på var sida om öppningen, en kilformad styvnad. Styvnaden består av ett tätt lager små kvistar på bägge sidor därom ett stycke papper och ytterst ett grovt linne. Styvnaderna går utmed bägge framkanterna, är 5 cm breda i toppen och 14 cm i basen mot midjekanterna, är 3 cm breda i toppen och 14 cm i basen mot midjekanten. På styvnadernas nederkanter sitter på vardera sidan en 7 cm lång sidenögla, numera fastsydd runtom. Tjugotvå knapphål mitt fram på vänster framstycke, sydda i vitt silke. 18 knappar finns kvar. Knapparna är silvertrådsklädda och fastsydda med grovt lingarn. Ärmsprundet har 9 knapphål, höger ärm har 8 knappar kvar och vänster ärm har alla 9 knapparna kvar. Ärmsprunden är kantade med kanvas. Vid midjan sitter en hälla 4 cm höhg tillverkad av en silvergalon, på varje framstycke samt en på vänster bakstycke. Skörten är intill midjesömmen kantade medsmå runda hål med 1 cm mellanrum. Hålen är kantade med stygn i gulvitt, tjockt silke. Runt flera hål har stygnen fallit bort. Dessa hål syns numer bara från insidan. Varje axelkarm har 10 små sprund, 1,5 och 2 cm djupa som bildar 12 flikarsom är 4 cm breda, karmens bredd är 8,5 cm. Karmarna är 4 cm breda och mellan flikarna vid sprundens botten sitter två tränsar mellan varje flik.
English: Fitted doublet with skirts and shoulder wings, in silk satin (originally gray-white) trimmed with with silver braid and silver thread buttons, lined with white taffeta. The satin was patterned with small scorings on all surfaces. Doublet associated with Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden (9 December 1594 – 6 November 1632, O.S.)

Detail of silver thread-covered buttons and buttonholes.

Measurements

  • Center front length: body 40.5 cm, skirts 19.5 cm.
  • Chest: 100 cm.
  • Center back length: body 40 cm, skirts 18 cm.
  • Back width: 45 cm.
  • Waist: 99 cm.
  • Length at side: body 13.7 cm, skirts 18.2 cm.
  • Shoulder: 16.3 cm.
  • Sleeve length: 64 cm.
  • Maximum sleeve width 40.5 cm.
  • Sleee width at th wrist 24.5 cm.
  • Slit at sleeve opening: 15 cm.
  • Collar: 52 cm length, 5 cm height.
  • Sleeve opening: 20.5 cm.
The doublet's collar is made ​​of three layers of linen with a layer of bark between each and then covered overall with new silk atlas from the 1978 conservation. The collar has two silver strap loops at the left front and two silver braids around the top and bottom. The collar contains a piece of card, 4 x 2.8 cm, on which is written in brown ink N 4 "Kong Gustav Adolphs atlaströja". The inside of the doublet has a wedge-shaped stiffened panel on each side of the front opening, reaching 26 cm up from the waist. The stiffening consists of a dense layer of small twigs [?bents] sandwiched between pieces of paper covered in coarse linen. The stiffening goes along both front edges, is 5 cm wide at the top and 14 cm at the base towards the waist edges, 3 cm wide at the top and 14 cm at the base to the waist edge. On the stiffening's lower edges there is a 7 cm long silk loop on each side, now sewn all around. There are 22 buttonholes at the front opening on the left side stitched in white silk. 18 buttons remain. The buttons are silver wrapped thread lined and sewn with coarse linen. The sleeve openings have nine buttonholes. Eight buttons remain on the right sleeve and all nine remain on the left sleeve. The sleeve opening is lined with canvas. At the waist is an insert 4 cm high made ​​of a silver stripe on each front piece and a back piece on the left. The insert is lined along the waist seam with eyelets 1 cm apart. The eyelets are outlined with stitches in off-white heavy silk. The stitches have disintegrated on many of the eyelets. These eyelets can now be seen only from the inside. Each shoulder wing has 10 small slits, 1.5 and 2 cm deep forming 12 tabs 4 cm wide. The wings are 8.5 cm wide and 4 cm deep. There are two bar tacks between each pair of tabs.
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Överfarten av Weichsel vid Kleinwerder
Date 1627
date QS:P571,+1627-00-00T00:00:00Z/9
Dimensions length: 405 mm (15.94 in)
dimensions QS:P2043,405U174789
(mitt fram)
institution QS:P195,Q1636176
Accession number
Object history Gustav II Adolf av Sverige
References
  • Rangström, Lena (2002) Modelejon : manligt mode 1500-tal, 1600-tal, 1700-tal, Stockholm: Livrustkammaren Bokförlaget Atlantis ISBN: 9174866435.
  • Conforti, Michael (1988) Sweden : a royal treasury, 1550-1700, Washington, D.C: National Gallery of Art ISBN: 0894681192.
Source LSH 82399 (lm_dig0491)
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Date/TimeThumbnailDimensionsUserComment
current16:20, 8 October 2013Thumbnail for version as of 16:20, 8 October 20132,048 × 3,072 (19.6 MB)LSHuploadBot (talk | contribs){{LSH artwork |artist= |title= |description= "Kröningsprocessionen" ur "Illustrerade Minnesblad från kröningshögtidligheterna år 1860", Finns i Livrustkammarens arkiv i kapsel med titeln "Ceremoni. Kröning 1800-1850" i skåpsektion 17. |original c

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