File talk:Innerskjortan - Livrustkammaren - 51383.tif

Draft English description

The shirt is made of three large pieces and is 1425 mm long (from the collar to bottom hem). The width is 920 mm, from the selvage at the left lower hem to the felled seam on the right side. Narrow panels added to increase the garment width are 220 + 220 mm wide = 440 mm. The right panel has traces of the join seam (the selvage is 550 mm long and goes along the right side seam on the front piece) that is a whipped seam - sewn from the wrong side, whipped selvage to selvage (10 left turned whip stitches/cm.) Next to this seam a rectangular hole has been torn out (190 x 40 mm). The sleeves, underarm gussets, and other hems are felled seams (with 9 stitches/cm). The points or laces are wrapped with about 6 stitches / cm.

Of the collar only a small fragment 230 mm long remains (along the hemmed edge below). The lace is partly torn - the remaining length of 130 mm ís only attached for 50mm and is very bloody. The collar is 60mm high and double folded.

The shirt is pleated with dense gathers into the collar (20 gathers/cm) and sewn with 10 whipped stitches and 7 overstitches in the decorative seam/cm closest to the gathers and 6 stitches at the outside. The lace is 50 mm wide and 20 mm high.

The cuff is 48 mm wide and the 70 mm long slit is preserved. The shirt is gathered at the cuff with approximately 14 gathers/cm and 8 or 6 decorative stitches / cm. The lace is whipped with 8 stitches to the left with white linen thread.

Hems are 15 mm wide and overcast with about 9 stitches/cm. right-reverse. A piece of the shirt is made up by a thin (very bloody) strip from one of the sleeves with the lace decoration still attached and a small fragment of the cuff. From this we can say that the sleeve length is 590 mm, as only 80 mm of the the seam attaching the sleeve to the body piece remains. On this piece there is about 10 mm of the shoulder seam that is a felled seam that becomes thinner towards the shoulder.

The shirt's smallest, thinnest strip is a piece of the left sleeve that fits into the jagged contour of the sleeve's least bloody part with very bloody lace in the middle. This piece also has a 140 mm piece of the shoulder seam that has been sewn overlapping in a slant seam between 7-14 mm wide. The decorative seam is sewn with 7 stitches/cm. In the continuation of the barley 30 mm wide strip with the lace centrally placed below a 5 mm piece of the cuff remains with a piece of lace also. Only 480 mm of the lace lenght remains, the top most part (110 mm) being torn away. At the left sleeve-left shoulder join is a torn piece of the front that in the top have the folded hem that is 145mm long. After 30 mm down is a tear that is parallel with the seam about 90 mm long so that only a 15 mm long tongue holds the oblique torn piece, that has a length of 170 mm and width of 130 mm. The back piece has a length of 135 mm at the hem towards the front piece that is about equally wide with 110 mm wide and 240 mm long.

General:

Of linen cloth with a thread count of 43 warps x 44 wefts/square cm, consisting of the front, back (b 1470 mm), side panel and sleeves, underarm gussets, collar and cuffs.

The sides have bout 510 mm long slits (the selvage is visible oat the left side). The front body of the shirt is a rectangular piece cut on the grain). The shirt is hemmed below with a 15-20 mm wide hem, stitched with 5 or 6 stitches/cm with Z-twisted linen. The rectangular-cut sleeves (only the left is partly preserved) are 610 mm long and 460 mm wide and decorated with 3 rows of white bobbin lace almost 20 mm wide. The sleeves are sewn into the shirt side seam selvage-to-selvage. The right side has a 390 mm ​​long slit (for half the sleeve width of 230 mm plus the 160 mm square gusset = 390 mm​​). A 160 mm wide square gusset is inserted where the bottom of the sleeve meets the side seam. The sleeves are therefor sewn completely "normally" and not as Annamaja Nylén assumed with a more peculiar construction where the sleeve would have reached up to the neck opening. The shoulder seams are almost completely straight, save the outer 165 mm. The seams are folded slightly wider at the shoulder than at the neck (about 5 mm difference).

The remaining width of the shirt body is gathered into the double folded collar which is almost 70 mm high and about 400 mm long so that the front parts of the shirt have been distributed along the collar's front parts that are 10 cm long, and the back part of the shirt has been gathered into the back part of the collar 200 mm The neck slit is cut vertically in the the front piece, at least 270 mm long, visible on the right side where the 15 mm wide pointed lace trim has been preserved. Additionally note that the split is not entirely placed symmetrically in the middle of the shirt front piece, but with a few centimeters of displacement to the right. It has been cut about 600 mm from the left edge and 230 + 350 = 580mm from the right. At the top of the collar a 15 mm wide border of bobbin lace (with a pattern repeat of 20 mm) has been sewn. On the outside of the collar edge to edge with the thin lace and downwards a wider lace edging is sewn on. This is 50 mm wide and has a pattern repeat of 22 mm in a design reminiscent of fans.

The decorative seam on the collar is sewn with back stitches in 2 parallel rows with 7 stitches/cm and 16 gathers of the shirt/cm. The lace is whipped on with 7 stitches/cm with a Z-twisted linen thread. The right shoulder seam is a felled seam (similar to the shirt "C") 14.3 mm wide and 165 mm long. It is made with 3 seams with backstitches. The back piece shows that the shirt side slits probably were about 510 mm long.

In the seam itself the seam is torn. The left sleeve is relatively well-preserved, but the hem has been cut up and is very very bloody. It has a 70 mm long sleeve slit, torn, and the cuff is 4 5mm high, how long can not be known. A 17 mm insertion lace with a wheel motif pattern in a repeat of 25 mm has been sewn onto the sleeve as decoration in 3 rows from the shoulder seam to the hem of the sleeve. 6 lengths of 610 mm = 3660 mm or six aln of lace have been used. The lace insertions are set 100 mm apart.