File:A lenten journey in Umbria and the Marches (IA ALentenJourneyInUmbria).pdf

CONTENTS.

PAGE CHAPTER I. Introductory 1 CHAPTER II. From Arezzo to Citta di Castello — The Cerfone — Monterohi — Valley of the Tiber — First appearance of Citta di Castello — The Yitelli —Days of Prosperity and Days of Decay in Italy — The Cannoniera 14 CHAPTER III. Other Yitelli Palaces — Earthquake in Citta di Castello — Paolo Yitelli, the Architect — Remarkable Picture — Neglected Gardens — Remarkable Frescoes of Gherardi — Pliny's Villa — Wine of the Valley of the Tiber — Its Qualities — Italian Local Historians — Their Scarceness — Their Value — Those of Citta di Castello — Specimens of Municipal Records : 29 CHAPTER IV. Route from Citta di Castello to Gubbio — Difficulties — Valley of the Tiber from Citta di Castello to Fratta — Ferry of the Tiber — Fratta —New Road to Gubbio — Picture at Fratta by Signorelli — Monas - tery of Monte Corona — Legislation respecting the Regular Clt in TJmbria — Pepoli — Civitella Raineri — Subterranean Difficulties of the new Road — Specimen of Italian Character - Valley of the Assino — Solitary Monastery — Castello di Danno — Weil - Head of the Biver Assino 44 CHAPTER V. Position of Gubbio — Hotel there—Italian Innkeeping — An Italian Reception — Monte Calvo — Palazzo Pubblico — Former Population of the City — Curious Anecdote — How the Dynasty of Montefeltro became Lords of Gubbio 59 CHAPTER VI. The residence of the Dukes of Urbino at Gubbio — The Duke's Cabinet —The Palace of the Municipality — Destroyed Loggia — Mauro Sarti's Description of the Palazzo Pubblico — Cost of the Building - Public Library — Remains of a Roman Theatre — The "Bottaccione M — Aqueduct — Soulage Collection—' Momo Nicchi "—Statue by Maestro Giorgio — Pictures at Gubbio — Picture by Damiani — Fresco by Nelli — Local Historians — Italian Society 76 CHAPTER VII. Route from Gubbio to Perugia — Limits of the ancient Pioenum — No Guide to be had — Valiugegno — Fratticciola, a Robber Town — Approaching to Perugia — Political Changes — Perugia deserted by Travellers, and Why — An Italian Juryman — The Fortress after the Expulsion of the Papal Government — Its Demolition — Former Prisoner — The Swiss in the Benedictine Convent — Political Feeling—Old Carbonaro — Curious Anecdote, showing the Isolation of the Papal Provinces from one another... 101 CHAPTER VIII. Drive to Assist — St. Francis- the Great Convent — The Church Services —Sermon by one of theFriars — Scene in the Church — Bell of Santa Lucia — The great Refectory — The Kitchen — The No Library — The Ambulatories — Excursion to Le Carceri — Mountain Subasio — Convent at the Carceri — The Superior — Legends 115 CHAPTER IX. From Assisi to Foligno — Basin of Assisi — Spelto — Foligno — Making Bargains at Inns — Foligno to Camerino — Belflore — Scepoli — Colflorito — Serravelle — District of Camerino — Situation of the City - Theatrical Ciceroni — Wanderings in Search of a Rare Book — Ravages of Earthquake at Camerino — Palace of the Varani — Wealth of the City under their Rule — Decadence under the Papal Government—History of the Varani — Dennistoun's Memoirs of the Dukes of Urbino — Passages from the History of the Varani — Fratricide, and Extermination of the Family — Escape and Adventures of Giulio Cesare Varani — A good Aunt — The Chiavelli Family at Fabriano — Second Escape of Giulio — Finally murdered by Cesare Borgia — Religious Experiences of Camilla Varani — Beauty of the Camerino Women — Quotation from a Poem of the Fifteenth Century on this Subject — Legend of St. Ansinus — History of Camerino, by Camillo 126 CHAPTER X. Route from Camerino — Castle of Varano — Origin of the Family — Tolentino — Mediaeval politics — Remarkable report to Alexander the Sixth — The*Aocorambini Family — A Sentence on Treason — St, Nicholas — Castello di Raneia — Great Battle in 1816 157 CHAPTER XI. Macerata — Its Points of Similitude and Contrast to Camerino — Origin of Macerata — Its Mediaeval History — Prosperity — Terraces around the Walls — Views from them — Divisions and Hatreds between City and City — Literary Quarrels — Remarkable one between Macerata and Camerino — Origin and Progress of the Dispute — Real bitterness of feeling attending such Disputations — Macerata and Recanati — Origin of Bicina — Work of Fra Brandimarte — Absenteeism at Macerata — Brick Palaces — Bramante's Church of La Madonna Delle Vergini — Enormous Ball Court — Probable Future Destiny of Macerata 171 CHAPTER XII. Route from Macerata to Fermo — Montolmo—Pausul — Difficulty of assigning Localities to the Names of destroyed Cities — Ancient Picenian Cities built in the Plain — St. Giusto — Curious Treaty between a number of Picenian Cities — Monte Granaro — St. Elpidio — Lete Morta — Turnpikes v. Non - Turnpikes — Difficulty of distinguishing these Hill - towns from each other — Long Ascent to Fermo — The Streets of the City — The Appearance of it from without the Walls — Dahnatia visible from Fermo — Situation of the Cathedral 186 CHAPTER XIII. Expressions of Fermo — The Picturesque v. the Prosperous — Deteriorated Aspect of the Country — Wealth of the Church at Fermo —Its proportion to that of the Country in General — Inn at Fermo —A Brigand Host and Hostess — Clean Sheets and Garlic — Architectural Features of the City — The Cathedral and the "Girone" —Former Military Importance of the Spot — Tyrants in Fermo — Destruction of the Castle — Tura da Imola — The Euffreducci Family — Oliveronto Euffreducci — His Story, as moralized by Macchiavelli — Ludovico Euffreducci — His Death Scene — Papal Rule in Fermo - The three Martyrs of Fermo — A Story of Papal Justice ... 199 CHAPTER XIV. From Fermo to Loretto — Porto di Fermo — Why no Fish are to be had at Fermo — Unattractive Coast Scenery — Soil brought down by the Bivers — Railway Works — Sites of Ancient Cities — CupraMarittima — Cluentum — Potenza — St. Elpidio — Brandimarte's Work on Picenum — The Hill of Loreto — Legend of the Santa Casa — Dalmatians at the Shrine of Loreto — Belief in the Legend 228 CHAPTER XV. Commencement of the Religion of the Santa Casa, St. Francis di Assisi, at Loreto — St. Carlo Borromeo at Loreto — First Church built there —Second Church — Third Church built by Guiliano da Maiano — Altered by Picconi da St. Gallo — Little to admire in the Church as it now is, except the Sculptures enclosing the Santa Casa itself —Measures of the Santa Casa — Description of the Interior — Mode of blessing Articles — Santa Scodella — The officiating Priest — The Treasury — Robbery of it by the French - Its present Contents - Majolica Vases — Main Industry of the town of Loreto — An Esprit Fort — Battle of Castel Fidardo took place under the eyes of the Canons of Loreto 236 CHAPTER XVI. Recanati — Its Situation — And Form — A mad gallop thither — Appearance of Recanati within the walls — Curious ancient Law — Former history, and political Constitution — Montefano, and its direct subjection to the Holy See — Ughelli's Libel on Recanati — Typographical Enterprise at Recanati in these days — The "Great Rebellion" at Recanati — Specimen of a Papal Bull in the fifteenth century — Remarkable charge of Idolatry — Friar Andrew and his Fortunes — Crusade against Recanati — Terrible Fate of the City - Return to Loreto 258 CHAPTER XVII. From Loreto to Osimo — Position of Osimo — Classical Authors who mention it — Besieged by Belisarius — Maintained its Independence —Its resistance to the Popes — Succeeds in causing its Fortress to be destroyed — The Citizens take cognizance of the disorders of a nunnery; and succeed in having it abolished — The Cathedral of Osimo — Remarkable series of portraits — Storm of wind at Osimo —Walk round the walls — From Osimo to Ancona — Monte Conero —Position of Ancona — Apparent discrepancy between Strabo and Pomponius Mela — Entrance to Ancona — First Impressions made by the City — Contrast between it and the Cities around it — Inconvenience of the "Free Port "—Memorial of an Inquiry — The Cathedral — Its Situation — Its Dangers from the Encroachments of the Sea — Military strength of Ancona — The Port 277 CHAPTER XVIII. From Ancona to Rimini by rail — Rimini to San Marino — Difficulty of the Journey — Position of the Town — Its Elevation — Means of reaching it — Appearance of the Town on approaching it — Life at San Marino — Postal Arrangements — Territory of the Republic — The "Borgo* — Ascent thence to the City — Manufacture of Gunpowder—Of Playing - cards — Solitude of the Town — Its Aspect - Church — Water Supply — The Fortress — Its Guardian — Its Position—Ancient Name of San Marino — View from the Fortress - Inmates of it — Administration of Justice — Meeting of the Council —Sunrise Visit to the Castle — Knocking up the City — Sunrise from the Castle Battlements — Coast of Dalmatia — Preservation of its Independence by San Marino — Return to Rimini — Thence to Florence — Conclusion 300

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Subjects: Umbria (Italy) -- Description And Travel; Italy -- Description And Travel; Travel