File:Trans-Himalaya; discoveries and adventures in Tibet (1909) (14802689303).jpg

Identifier: transhimalayadis02hedi (find matches)
Title: Trans-Himalaya; discoveries and adventures in Tibet
Year: 1909 (1900s)
Authors: Hedin, Sven Anders, 1865-1952
Subjects: Tibet (China) -- Description and travel
Publisher: London : Macmillan and co., ltd.
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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mountain which we skirt on the right side of thevalley. The fresh grass has sprouted out of the earth inits green summer garb, but it will not really thrive tillafter the warm rains. We meet a caravan of 200 yaks infive sections, each with two whistling drivers. Whence have you come ? I ask. From Tabie-tsaka, where we have been to fetch salt. Where does the lake lie ? To the north, in Bongba, thirty days journey fromhere. Does the road cross over high passes ? * Yes, there is a high pass twelve days to the north. And then they passed on with their light-steppingyaks towards Saka-dzong. It was the first time I hadheard this important lake mentioned, and I envied themen of the salt caravan who had traversed this waythrough the Trans-Himalaya quite unknown to Europeans. We left the tasa7u on our left ; we turned aside north-westwards straight to the Targyaling-gompa standingwith its red IJiakang, its small white buildings, and itslarge cJihorten on a terrace immediately above the spot 64
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CHAP. XL ALONG BYWAYS TO TRADUM 65 where Guffaru has pitched the camp. Twenty lamas camedown to find out whether we were thieves and robberswho intended to attack the convent. Certainly not,Guffaru answered, we are peaceful travellers passingthe night here. We will not allow it, they replied ; you must remain on the high-road. I now sent Rabsangup, and he was surrounded at the gate by thirty monks. Hewas told the same; a European had never been here, andnone should ever enter the monastery. If the gentlemenof the dzong attempted to get us in, they should pay thepenalty with their lives. Charming ecclesiastics ! EvenRabsang, who was a Lamaist and wore several ^^^j- on hisneck, was not allowed in. He was in the service of aEuropean. So inimically disposed were these monks thatthey stopped up the channel we drew our water from.The Devashung, they said, had nothing to do with them.We had heard in Saka-dzong that these monks werebellicose and independent ; there they had said that thefree-

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