File:Trans-Himalaya; discoveries and adventures in Tibet (1909) (14779697851).jpg

Identifier: transhimalayadis02hedi (find matches)
Title: Trans-Himalaya; discoveries and adventures in Tibet
Year: 1909 (1900s)
Authors: Hedin, Sven Anders, 1865-1952
Subjects: Tibet (China) -- Description and travel
Publisher: London : Macmillan and co., ltd.
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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ionthat I must possess occult powers to defy with impunitythe god of the holy lake. But they understood that thiswas owing to my friendship with the Tashi Lama, whohad given me his holy blessing. The monastery Tugu-gompa is a dependency of Shibeling-gompa in Purang,and most of the monks come from there to spend threeyears on the lake. They own herds in Chang-tang,trade, and seem to be in good circumstances ; at any rate,they help the poor pilgrims who have nothing to eat ontheir wanderings round Tso-mavang. They receivegifts from well-to-do pilgrims. The temple halls arepicturesque, handsome and in very good order. Youenter from an upper balcony into an outer hall withwall paintings, among which is a picture of Tso-mavangwith the hsh-god, Mado Gemo, rising from the waves(Illust. 250). He has seven water-snakes in his hair,and the lower part of his body is like a green dolphin.The lake is as deep as it is broad, and concentric ringsencircle the rising god. The abbot said that the fish-
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xLv MORE LAKE VOYAGES 131 god comes up to greet the god of Tso-mavang, HlabsenDorche Barva, who gallops in a cloud of grey fiery tonguesand smoke on a pink horse, and is armed with spear, bowand quiver. In the background stands Kang-rinpoche,the holy mountain. The whole picture is wanting inperspective and proportion, but it is curious and interest-ing, and the Lamaist artist has done his best to idealizethe holy lake by his drawing and colouring. I made acopy of this work of art, which has some relationship withour old country paintings. From the entrance hall a small door gives access tothe holiest shrine in all Tugu-gompa, namely, the hallof the lake god. He is represented only as a mask,surrounded by kadakhs, and seems to peep out frombetween curtains. A couple of flames burn before himand the usual bowls are placed on a stool table. No manbut the monks themselves may enter this little alcove, butI obtained permission to sit on the threshold and drawa sketch of it (Illust. 251). I

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