File:Italian journeys - by W.D. Howells; with one hundred and three illustrations by Joseph Pennell. (1901) (14789174773).jpg

Identifier: italianjou00howe (find matches)
Title: Italian journeys / by W.D. Howells ; with one hundred and three illustrations by Joseph Pennell.
Year: 1901 (1900s)
Authors: Howells, W.D.
Subjects: Italy Description and Travel
Publisher: William Heinemann
Contributing Library: Whitney Museum of American Art, Frances Mulhall Achilles Library
Digitizing Sponsor: Metropolitan New York Library Council - METRO

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r passengers andbright shops and cafes ; or the grim old feudal towers ; orthe age-embrowned palaces, eloquent in their haughtystrength of the times when they were family fortresses ; orthe churches with the red pillars of their porticos restingupon the backs of eagle-headed lions ; or even the white-coated garrison (now there no more), with its heavy-footedrank and file, its resplendent officers, its bristling fortifica-tions, its horses and artillery, crowding the piazzas ofchurches turned into barracks. Verona is an almost purelyGothic city in her architecture, and her churches are moreworthy to be seen than any others in North Italy, outsideof Venice. San Zenone, with the bronzes on its doorsrepresenting in the rudeness, of the first period of art theincidents of the Old Testament and the miracles of thesaints—with the allegorical sculptures surrounding theinterior and exterior of the portico, and illustrating, amongother things, the creation of Eve with absolute literalness 278
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Doorway of the Duorao, Verona Italian $onrncft —with its fine, solemn crypt in which the dust of the Veronatitular saint lies entombed—with its minute windows, andits vast massive columns sustaining the roof upon capitals ofevery bizarre and fantastic device—is doubtless most abun-dant in that Gothic spirit, now grotesque and now earnest,which somewhere appears in all the churches of Verona ;which has carven upon the facade of the Duomo the statuesof Orlando and Oliviero, heroes of romance, and near themhas placed the scandalous figure of a pig in a monks robeand cowl, with a breviary in his paw ; which has reared theexquisite monument of Guglielmo da Castelbarco before thechurch of St. Anastasia, and has produced the tombs ofthe Scaligeri before the chapel of Santa Maria Antica. I have already pledged myself not to attempt anydescription of these tombs, and shall not fall now. But Ibought in the English tongue, as written at Verona, some•• Notices, kept for sale by the sacr

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