File:Hakama assembly 3-panel divided old narrow loom width.svg

English: This file shows how a divided hakama (Japanese-style trousers) is assembled from modern wide bolts of cloth. Reverse of cloth is a darker shade for clarity. Shown is a symmetrically-pleated three-panel hakama, thus named for using three panels of the traditional narrow loom width (40-45cm, narrowing to ~35cm in the Edo period) for each leg. This means that all the vertical seam edges are selvages. There are many variants; apart from panel number, some hakama are undivided, some have a square gusset in the groin, some have deeper or shallower side openings (matadachi), the width of the himo (waist ties) varies, the number and position of the pleats varies, there are narrow and drawstring cuffs, some have a koshi-ita, etc.. Modern hakama are often made of a permapleated polyester blend; traditional materials include linen and silk. A stiff fabric holds pleats well and allows fairly large stitches. This is a schematic drawing for a theater costume, not documentation of any historic garment; it does not attempt to accurately convey the detail of any garment.