File:All the Russias- travels and studies in contemporary European Russia, Finland, Siberia, the Caucasus, and Central Asia (1902) (14597699077).jpg

Identifier: allrussiastravel01norm (find matches)
Title: All the Russias: travels and studies in contemporary European Russia, Finland, Siberia, the Caucasus, and Central Asia
Year: 1902 (1900s)
Authors: Norman, Henry, 1858-1939
Subjects: Tolstoy, Leo, graf, 1828-1910 Eastern question (Central Asia)
Publisher: New York, C. Seribner's sons
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: The Library of Congress

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thorities for special per-mission to travel in the Trans-Caspian military district. Usuallythey accord it; if they do not, you dont go. Supposing they do,you betake yourself to Baku, by the route you have read abouthere, or some other; you drive down in the evening to the wharfof the Caucasus and Mercury Steamship Company—stopping onthe way, if you have the proper travellers foresight, to buy a thousand cigarettes, a bottle of something for strictly medical 228 THE TRANS-CASPIAN RAILWAY 229 use, and a dozen tins of sardines; you take a ticket for Krasno-vodsk, and a perspiring Persian carries your luggage on boarda sturdy little paddle-boat, built thirty years ago on the Tyne. Ifyou are lucky, you travel with the same captain that I did, whoknows about as much French as you know Russian, but whosegeniality is wholly independent of any philological basis; youhave a jovial little supper with him; you turn into a comfortablecabin; and some time after you are asleep the ship paddles out
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The Landing-stage at Krasnovodsk. into the blue Caspian, her nose turned toward the rising sun.Not much danger so far, and disguise superfluous. Eighteen hours is the allotted time for the sea-crossing, andin fine weather it is enough. Coming back we took forty, forthere was a wind and sea that at times made us think it wouldhave been safer, after all, to be in old-fashioned Central Asia, tosay nothing of the man we lost overboard. Going East, however,the Caspian was like a pond, and on the crowded decks, with theirconspicuous division of quarters for Men, Women, and 230 ALL THE RUSSIAS Persians/ happiness reigned, and everybody ate sunflower-seeds and brewed tea. The oily reek of Baku was far behind,the Caspian was as still as a lake, and at last the little paddle-boatturned sharply round a sand-spit and brought into view a hun-dred flat white houses, scattered at the foot of converging barebrown hills, like a few crystals of sugar at the bottom of a browncup, and we were at Krasnovo

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