File:Winter India (1903) (14576616248).jpg

Identifier: winterindia00scid (find matches)
Title: Winter India
Year: 1903 (1900s)
Authors: Scidmore, Eliza Ruhamah, 1856-1928
Subjects: India -- Description and travel
Publisher: New York : The Century Co.
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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the Nilgiri Hills, and officials from every-where, were doing their Christmas shopping thosedays, the races were on, and the streets and bazaarswere full of life and animation. We drove intobeautiful grounds and around under a great porticoof a mansion to find the chemists shop; into anothersplendid place to find, not the lord chief justice, butthe grocer; and this extravagance of space makesMadras a city of frightfully magnificent distances. The burnt-cork butler welcomed us home to ourresidential hotel, himself brought the dainty tea-trayto the marble-floored portico, and stood by withear-to-ear smiles, watching us enjoy his crisp toastand fresh seed-cakes. We began to have a Christmasfeeling of peace and good will to all Madras. Theloggia was so attractive that we ordered dinner tobe served there, rather than dress and dine with anymore self-supplying guests, as at that best hotel inIndia. The butler assented joyfully, a whole min-strel troupe ran in with bouquets, fruit pyramids,
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MADRAS AND THE SEVEN PAGODAS 60 candle-bells, and a British profusion of electroplatedfurnishings. The butler, three assistants, David andDaniel, a pankha boy, and whispering coolies un-counted beyond the latticed door, combined to servea good dinner to perfection. We wondered how theresidential guests were faring with so much of theheadquarters staff on duty in our apartment, andthe next day learned that we were the only guestsin the new hotel; that the invisible manager was amyth, and the black butler the greatest Pooh Bahoff the stage. Madras residents had, long in advance, engaged allthe budgery-boats on the Buckingham Canal forChristmas week; and instead of one of those com-fortable house-boats, where civilized existence con-tinues its regular routine, we had to content our-selves with a coal-barge—a spacious and com-modious fourteen-passenger-boat, Samuel Danielcalled it—for the visit to the Seven Pagodas, theruins of IMahabalipur. Our Turveydrop assured usthat all tourists

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