File:Ultar peak Karimabad Hunza.jpg

DescriptionUltar peak Karimabad Hunza.jpg	English: Ultar Peak (7388m, the magnificent mountain) lies in the heart of Hunza valley and is in the Batura chain of peaks which starts from Chalt village (Bar valley) to Kampir Dior in Kurumbar valley. This beautiful mountain is surrounded by Lady Finger, Marble Peak, Harchinder Peak, and Passu Peak. The surrounding glaciers are Attabad, Ultar, Hassan Abad and Batura. This is a photo of a monument in Pakistan identified as the GB-17
Date	28 July 2016, 17:51:30
Source	Own work
Author	Jamalhunzokuz

Camera location	36° 23′ 26.99″ N, 74° 43′ 00.01″ E	View this and other nearby images on: OpenStreetMap	36.390830; 74.716670

Ultar II is a difficult and dangerous mountain to climb with significant avalanche risk. Between 1986 and 1996 there were more than 15 expeditions to the mountain from six or seven countries. This is an unusually high amount for a Karakoram peak of this size and difficulty. Despite the high volume of attempts there was no summit until 1996 with only a significant number of fatalities to show for their efforts. The majority of attempts on the mountain were made from the south and west sides with the long south ridge being the most popular. Attemepts have also been made from the north but have largely been futile due to the significant objective danger. The Western peak had been previously climbed in 1984 by three Japanese climbers.

1996 bought not one but two successful ascents of the mountain via different routes. The first ascent was made by Akito Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka from the Japan Alpine Club Tokai Expedition. The pair climbed the southwest side of the mountain via the avalanche prone Ultar Glacier in an almost alpine-style fixing 450m of ropes on the lower half of the ascent and using a few fixed ropes from previous expeditions higher up. Having left advanced base camp on 3rd July they reached the summit on the 11th. The eight day ascent was largely due to the mountain’s technical difficulties than anything else. Having summited, the pair’s luck took a turn for the worse. While descending the following day the weather deteriorated and the pair was forced to bivouac in their tent at 6000m for the next five nights with hardly any food or water. On the 17th the weather finally improved and they continued their descent and reached advanced base camp on the 19th – sixteen days after first leaving it. The following day Yamazaki began to feel sick with violent stomach ache. Next day his condition worsened and he sadly died at 11pm before a helicopter could evacuate him. Matsuoka’s fate was no better as he died only a year later while attempting the nearby rock spire of Bubuliomoting (Lady Finger).

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