File:Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX (1903) (14576783217).jpg

Identifier: twocentsofcostu01earl (find matches)
Title: Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX
Year: 1903 (1900s)
Authors: Earle, Alice Morse, 1851-1911
Subjects: Clothing and dress
Publisher: New York, The Macmillan company London, Macmillan & co., ltd.
Contributing Library: Getty Research Institute
Digitizing Sponsor: Getty Research Institute

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th cas-socks were the commonest wear. There were other names for the doublet which arenow difficult to place precisely. In the reign ofHenry VIII a law was passed as to mens wear ofvelvet in their sleeveless cotes, jackets, and jupes.This word jupe and its ally jupon were more fre-quently heard in womens lists ; but jump, a deriva-tive, was mans wear. Randle Holme said : Ajump extendeth to the thighs ; is open and buttonedbefore, and may have a slit half way behind. Itmight be with or without sleeves — all this beinglikewise true of the doublet. From this jump de-scended the modern jumper and the eighteenth cen-tury jumps— what Dr. Johnson defined in one ofhis delightsome struggles with the names of womensattire, Jumps: a kind of loose or limber staysworn by sickly ladies. Coats were not furnished to the Massachusetts orPlymouth planters, but those of Piscataquay in NewHampshire had lined coats, which were simplydoublets like all the rest. The Evolution of Coats and Waistcoats 177
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Colonel William Legge. In 1633 we find that Governor Winthrop hadseveral dozen scarlet coats sent from England to the Bay. The consigner wrote, I could not 178 Two Centuries of Costume find any Bridgwater cloth but Red; so all the coatssent are red lined with blew, and lace suitable;which red is the choise color of all. These coatsof double thickness were evidently doublets. The word coat in the earliest lists must oftenrefer to a waistcoat. I infer this from the small costof the garments, the small amount of stuff it took tomake them, and because they were worn with Vpercoats — upper coats. Raccoon-skin and deerskincoats were many; these were likewise waistcoats,and the first lace coats were also waistcoats. RobertKeayne of Boston had costly lace coats in 1640,which he wore with doublets — these likewise werewaistcoats. As years go on, the use of the word becomes con-stant. There were moose-coats of mooseskin.Josselyn says mooseskin made excellent coats formartial men. Then come

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