File:Travels in north and central China (1902) (14595561597).jpg

Identifier: travelsinnorthce00bircuoft (find matches)
Title: Travels in north and central China
Year: 1902 (1900s)
Authors: Birch, John Grant, 1846 or 7-1900
Subjects: China -- Description and travel
Publisher: London Hurst and Blackett
Contributing Library: Robarts - University of Toronto
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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by carts,but a fine macadamised road and an electric tram-way were nearly complete. Our road was a trackwhere the wheels sank to the axles in mud, or weresmothered in dust, while hordes of beggars infestedthe path, kowtowing in the dust. Inside the wallswe were surprised to find a real macadamised road,stretching nearly across the Chinese city, then wehad to struggle through the gate and along theinexpressibly vile streets of the Tartar city, with itsmoving block of carts, donkeys, wheelbarrows,ponies, mules, and camel-trains, and its swarmingfoot-traffic, all mingled together, there being no MALTA TO PEKING. 5 footpaths and no rule of the road. The road itselfis a rutted series of mounds and hollows, deep-coated with dust, mud, and all imaginable filth.Legation Street is but little better, though on itstand most of the Legation and other Europeanbuildings, among them the comparatively palatialand towering new erection of the Hong-Kong andShanghai Bank. We put up at the Club, where we
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A CHINESE CROWD. met old acquaintances. We dined with , and, in a long and interesting conversation learnedsomething of the simmering pot of intrigue andaggression which was in progress. I called on theInspector-General, who was as Chinese as ever, andhad much to say against the iniquity of foreignaggressors, though not hopeful for the Chinesethemselves. One day we visited the headquarters of the RomanCatholic Mission, where I resumed my acquaintance 6 TRAVELS IN NORTH AND CENTRAL CHINA. with the famous Pere Favier, now Bishop. He isa delightful old gentleman, with a tall burly figure,but seemed hardly episcopal, as, clad a la chinoise,and smoking a long cheroot, he came forward tomeet us. Under the guidance of his chaplain wewent over the whole establishment. In this Missionare brought up a number of children of the poorerclasses, boys whom the parents cannot afford tokeep, and girls who would otherwise be cast out ininfancy, alive, for pigs and dogs to devour. Therewere five recepti

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