File:Travels and politics in the Near East (1898) (14804126683).jpg

Identifier: travelspolitic00mill (find matches)
Title: Travels and politics in the Near East
Year: 1898 (1890s)
Authors: Miller, William, 1864-1945
Subjects: Eastern question (Balkan) Balkan Peninsula
Publisher: New York : Frederick A. Stokes
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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r that thetown is most artistic. On the left bank tier after tier ofwooden Turkish houses peer out of the greenery, withhere and there a minaret rising above the foliage. Here,too, the river is not embanked, but left to nature, andinstead of a level promenade there are charming contrastsbetween the undulating shore and the rocks which hereand there rise direct from the river-bed. Formerly Sara-jevo, like all Turkish towns, possessed a large numberof Mussulman cemeteries, whose gravestones stood at allangles, and whose neglected vegetation formed greenoases between the houses—for as every one knows theMussulman loves to live in close proximity to the lastresting-place of his kinsman. This was one of the diffi-culties with which the Austrians had to deal when theyentered the country, for these picturesque cemeterieswere permanent obstacles to the expansion of the town.Gradually, however, this difficulty has been overcome: somehave disappeared, others have been turned into gardens, 1^0
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Travels and Politics but here and there one still comes across a few stones,while the hills above the town are still covered with Jewishand Mussulman graves. One historic monument has notbeen allowed to fall into decay—the Mosque of Ali Pasha,towards the entrance of the town, where the insurgentsmade a desperate resistance to the Army of Occupationon the memorable 19th of August, 1878, when Sarajevofell, the second time in its history that the Bosniancapital, temporarily occupied by Prince Eugen in 1697,came into the hands of the Austrians. Mohammedanfanaticism now finds vent in the weekly exercises of thedancing and howling dervishes, which take place in theSinan tekkeh, or cloister. When I visited this buildingI was first of all escorted into a cafe, where a numberof people were sitting, playing cards and drinking coffee.Traversing a stableyard I reached the wooden gallery of theplace in which the dervishes perform. I expected everymoment that the gallery would fall down, as it wa

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