File:The farmer his own builder - a guide and reference book for the construction of dwellings, barns and other farm buildings, together with their utilities, describing reliable methods, offering (14760571596).jpg

Identifier: farmerhisownbuil00robe (find matches)
Title: The farmer his own builder : a guide and reference book for the construction of dwellings, barns and other farm buildings, together with their utilities, describing reliable methods, offering practical suggestions, presenting numerous details and formulas, and explaining simple rules for estimating the labor and materials required. With special reference to concrete and carpentry
Year: 1918 (1910s)
Authors: Roberts, H. Armstrong (Howard Armstrong), 1885-1947
Subjects: Farm buildings
Publisher: Philadelphia : D. McKay
Contributing Library: Robarts - University of Toronto
Digitizing Sponsor: University of Toronto

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n relation toits diameter, the angle from a perpendicular position,and the variety and quality of the wood must all betaken into consideration. For the average hoistingwork on a farm, which does not exceed 2 tons, a clear-grained spruce spar 16 feet long and 6 inches at itsnarrowest diameter is amply strong; and with it usef-inch diameter rope over the hoisting tackle and ^-inchdiameter rope on the tackles for guys. For 5-ton work 250 THE FARMER HIS OWN BUILDER use an 8-inch spar, inch rope on the hoisting tackle, andf-inch on the guys. In setting up a gin pole care should be taken that thefoot of the derrick is securely braced, so that when thehead is raked at a wide angle from the perpendicularthe foot will not kick up nor slip. The guys—atleast three and preferably four—should be led to pointsas nearly equidistant as possible and securely fastened.If tree butts or other suitable lashing purchases arenot available, put down a post as shown in Fig. 149,commonly called a dead man.
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zl. z(. CHAPTER XVI Plans of Farm BUILDINGSThere arc three important elements in the construc-tion of a cellar for storing vegetables and roots: the in-terior should be reasonably dry, antifreezing, and withsufficient ventilation to prevent mustiness. Artificialheat would cause undue evaporation, therefore it iscustomary to build the cellar below ground level onwell-drained soil. If building stone is available on thepremises or obtainable nearby it may be used eco-nomically; otherwise it might be well to consider con-crete or hollow tile. The accompanying sketch, see Fig. 150, illustrates a12 x 20 feet cellar 8 feet deep with 16-inch masonrywalls; whereas, if concrete is substituted, the walls needonly be 8 inches thick. The excavation may be madethe full depth of the cellar, to correspond with the exist-ing grade level; or it may be dug about 6 feet deep, andwith the soil that is removed throw up an embankmentor terrace around the building. Very often it will beconvenient to select a

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