File:The American florist - a weekly journal for the trade (1911) (18114969196).jpg

Title: The American florist : a weekly journal for the trade
Identifier: americanfloristw45amer (find matches)
Year: 1885 (1880s)
Authors: American Florists Company
Subjects: Floriculture; Florists
Publisher: Chicago : American Florist Company
Contributing Library: UMass Amherst Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: Boston Library Consortium Member Libraries

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igii. The American Florist. 616
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BANQUET AT THE TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY OF THE CHICAGO FLORISTS CLUB, OCTOBER 5, 1911. not be disposed of to advantage Ijefore there is a real demand. For early blooms the most import- ant feature is early planting, and just when this should be done depends upon the date they are to be cut. Smith's Advance and Golden Glow planted the first of May, and buds se- lected about June 25, should mature the last half of August. Successive plantings up to early June and secur- ing first bud will give a continued crop to late October. Unaka planted May 1, with buds secured August ."> to 10, should all be ready to cut the first half of October, as it is a strong grower with stems four feet, incurved blooms over six inches in diameter and very similar to Wm. Duckham in color (pos- sibly a little brighter)—it has no rival as an early pink. At the present time October Frost and Donatello are mak- ing their appearance, both are good to follow Smith's Advance and Golden Glow, but should be planted in May or early June to secure best results. For October 15 to November 1, we would plant Oroba, a white coming in a few days in advance of Ivory, pro- ducing larger blooms and is of a splen- did sturdy dwarf habit. Chrysolora for yellow is unsurpassed for this period, being larger than Col. D. Appleton, and is 15 days earlier, has stronger stem and of the best incurved form. Gloria would be our choice for pink. These three, like the earlier kinds, are more satisfactory when planted fairly early, not later than June 15 and secure buds .about August 15, w'hich would insure the crc)) cut and out of the way before the midseason or November varieties are ready. This brings us up to the midseason varieties which are so nu- merous, and in fact, there are so many good kinds to select from it does not seem necessary to mention them. The above remarks also apply to the late flowering section. Pompons, anemones and singles pos- sess desired qualities to .a degree, and are oC special value to those who re- tail their cut and cater to the best trade. They lend grace and beauty to flora! arrangements, in fact, the best effects can not be attained without them. The singles are more fragile, and are not so well adapted for con- signments that necessitate rehandling. •. Soil is the first item to be considered urt()er the head of cultural methods. Old sods, cut thin, from a moderately firm soil, and piled with one-fifth to one-si.xth their bullc of cow manure, six months in advance, furnishes the -best material for filling the bench. Some advocate a lar.ger quantity of manure, but we find the plants do not need it in their earlier stages of growth, also the wood is firmer, and ripens better than where nitrogenous matter is abundant. We prefer giving food later when tlie plant is strong and the roots active. Those who wish to utilize old soil will meet with very good success by using half new and half old. We prefer placing the new at the bottom of the bench and if pre- pared compost is not at hand, fresh cut sods chopped, and put through a soil mixer will make an excellent sub- stitute. As previously stated the early sorts should be planted if possible early in May. We have calls for early varieties late in July, but the fallacy of such a course is apparent when we consider that instead of planting, they should be selecting buds. The midseason and late will do well if planted in June. It is true, fairly good results are the out- come when this operation is deferred to the succeeding month, but the flow- ers are seldom as large and fine in finish as those which have had ample time to develop a strong plant before select- ing the buds. Early planting in only moderately rich soil gives the best stem and foliage for the commercial grower, namely, smaller leaves on short jointed and firm wooded stems. AVith the foundation constructed thor- ough and complete, tiie building of the bloom will practically take care of it- self. It is unnecessary to go into details in the operation of tying, this work should be done when the plants are a foot in height, or at least before there is danger of them toppling ovei'. From this time on until the buds appear, weeding and watering are the most urgent matters requiring attention. Less water will be required during the first stages of growth, with increased quantity as they gain strength and more foliage. The date for buds to ajipear is gov- erned to a large degree by the climatic conditions. During my visit to Cali- fornia (the state of many climates), I was much impressed by the fact that those portions of the state enjoying a cool air produce the earliest blooms, and the late ones are from localities more torrid. At Los Angeles I was told the first in the market come from the growers near the coast, while the late ones come from the foot hills of the mountains only 20 miles away. No fixed dates can be given, as they vary according to the conditions of the weather during July and August, the cooler the earlier, and the warmer the later, this change in construction takes place. On one occasion we had W. H. Chadwick immediately follow Ivory and at other times they have been 60 days apart. With an average season in this sec- tion, flowers for September are from buds selected about July 1 to 15, for October. August 1 to 15; for November,

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