File:The American annual of photography (1912) (14579435187).jpg

Identifier: americanannualof1912newy (find matches)
Title: The American annual of photography
Year: 1912 (1910s)
Authors:
Subjects: Photography
Publisher: New York : Tennant and Ward
Contributing Library: Harold B. Lee Library
Digitizing Sponsor: Brigham Young University

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ensitizer). Forthe softest possible prints use the developers without the ad-ditions of any bichromate. Increasing contrast is then securedby the gradual addition of the bichromate drop by drop. Itseffect is much stronger in the developer for brown tones andshould be added with caution. In no other printing processcan such control be obtained simply in the developer. Thus,hard negatives may be made to yield soft prints, and flatnegatives brilliant ones. Slide the prints face up in the developer, breaking quicklyany bubbles that form with a camels hair brush or tuft ofcotton. Care needs to be taken in this respect or the finishedprint will show marks. Allow the prints to remain in thedeveloper two or three minutes at least, for if properly ex-posed they cannot over-develop. Then transfer to a tray ofwater ready for the clearing bath, which is necessary to dis-solve the yellow iron salts. I find the following the mostvigorous: Water i^ gal. Carbonate soda, dry i oz. Oxalic acid i oz. i(
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KALLITYPE PRINT ON SMOOTH WRITINGPAPER; DEVELOPED FOR BRILLIANCY. Illustrating Article Why Not Kallitype? by George P. Swain. Brown prints clear in lo minutes; black ones or those de-veloped with acetate from 20 minutes to half an hour. Afterrclearing, wash 20 minutes, then fix for ten minutes in: Water >4 gal. Hypo 5 oz. Ammonia, 26° ^ oz. Wash one hour.If the black prints have too objectionable a purplish tone,they may be given a cold bluish shade by toning in a goldbath, an acetate bath preferred. Prints will reduce slightlyin this bath. Tone after fixing and drying. The acetate developer can be used but once, the Rochellesalts-borax several times if allowed to stand and decanted.The clearing and fixing baths should be used only two or threetimes. Use the developer deep in the tray, cover the printsquickly and keep moving a moment or two in all the baths.And now I hear someone say kallitype is not permanent.Personally I am satisfied that it is, provided pure chemicalsare used,

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