File:The "Keystone" system. A text-book on cutting and designing ladies' garments (1891) (14598163160).jpg

Identifier: keystonesystemte00heck (find matches)
Title: The "Keystone" system. A text-book on cutting and designing ladies' garments
Year: 1891 (1890s)
Authors: Hecklinger, Charles. (from old catalog)
Subjects: Tailoring (Women's) (from old catalog)
Publisher: New York, The West publishing co.
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: Sloan Foundation

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Text Appearing Before Image:
st be. This rule applies to all kinds of double-breasted, as for instance, one may be cuthaving 4 inches of width at top, overlapping on the shoulder, where the buttonsmust be placed, and having only one inch lap at the waist. Diagram D shows also the same lap of double-breasted, intended to roll opensome distance. For such style the lapel must be more pointed at top, as shown at C, and re-ceive a trifle more width there, which will necessitate a small V at A. The shape over the breast may be like those shown, or made wider, andbottom may be cut square, narrow or cutaway to fancy. The opening of the roll is decided on, and the break line drawn, and thecollar made. The additions here illustrated, whether referring to a single or double-breasted,apply not alone to short garments, as illustrated on this page, but to all jackets andulsters. On the former reaching down to the hips, or, as on ulsters, to the bottomof the dress, whatever is added extends on a straight front all the way down.
Text Appearing After Image:
DIAGRAMS 24, 25, 26 and 27. 44 THE KEYSTONE SYSTEM FOR LADIES GARMENTS. COLLARS. DIAGRAMS 28, 29, 30 AND 31. THE variety of collars constantly being made, changed and remodeled, makesit an utter impossibility to describe them all. But however many the changes that may be, all of them rest upon certainrules which will produce them. * Thus the straight collar, no matter if narrow or wide, round or square infront, or having a turn-over piece set on, remains the same, and is produced bydrawing a straight line from 4 to 2, through the shoulder point. On each side of the line at 2, or to i and 3, place one-half the quantity youwish to make the width of collar, as one inch from 2 to 3, and also one from 2 to ifor a collar to be i^ inch wide when made up. For e.xtremely wide collars, more must of course be added. The width atfront from 4 to 6 is made the same as i to 3. From 3, to connect with the neck seam, draw a line, and then follow alongneck from 5 to the front. The front edge is cut to

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