File:Shore processes and shoreline development (1919) (14577376870).jpg

Identifier: shoreprocessessh00john (find matches)
Title: Shore processes and shoreline development
Year: 1919 (1910s)
Authors: Johnson, Douglas Wilson, 1878-1944
Subjects: Shorelines Coasts
Publisher: New York : John Wiley & Sons, Inc. (etc., etc.)
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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sured from apex to apex. On the shoreof small ponds and bays, where only small waves are developed,the spacing varies from less than a foot to two feet or more.On sea beaches the cusps built by small waves may be less than10 feet apart, while those built by large storm waves may be100 fee+ apart. Jefferson emphasizes the lack of regularity in the spacing ofcusps, whereas others have been impressed by their regularrecurrence at fairly uniform intervals. Liasmuch as the matterof spacing is of vital importance in any discussion of the originof these forms, we may examine it somewhat carefully. Jeffer-son^^ writes: The constant recurrence of bay (intercusp space)and point (apex) as one walks along the beach suggests thatthere is a regularity in the width of intervals. This is not so,however, on Lynn Beach, as appears from the diagram, meas-ures from point to point along the beach being 21, 20, 18, 16, 22.17, 6, 7, and 22 paces. Fainter cusps farther south toward 468 MINOR SHORE FORMS >
Text Appearing After Image:
a BEACH CUSPS 469 Nahant show similar irregulaiity. It might be said, howeverthat on Lynn Beach they are commonly about 20 paces wide.And again^: In a view along the beach these unevennessesare foreshortened into the appearance of points of sand or gravelknown as beach cusps. They are less even than they look.In still another connection he says: Perspective foreshorteninggives them a fictitious appearance of regularity. On theother hand, Shaler^^ speaks of their orderly and uniform suc-cession ; and it has seemed to me that the degree of regu-larity in spacing is so great as to be incompatible with certainof the proposed theories of origin. It is true that measurements of the spaces do not always giveexactly the same figure; that in the early stages of developmenta greater degree of irregularity prevails than later on; and thateven where cusps are very perfectly developed, occasional aber-rant features obscure the regularity of spacing. Nevertheless,a large number of observations of b

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