File:Ruins of desert Cathay - personal narrative of explorations in Central Asia and westernmost China (1912) (14596439648).jpg

Identifier: ruinsofdesertcat01stei (find matches)
Title: Ruins of desert Cathay : personal narrative of explorations in Central Asia and westernmost China
Year: 1912 (1910s)
Authors: Stein, Aurel, Sir, 1862-1943 Archaeological Survey of India
Subjects:
Publisher: London : Macmillan
Contributing Library: Robarts - University of Toronto
Digitizing Sponsor: University of Toronto

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would also arrive. He had started four hours before me,but the heavy downpour would, of course, suffice as anexcuse for delay. So my old Pathan orderly had to beleft behind to catch the belated and probably not toowilling traveller, with orders to deliver him safely, as earlyas possible, at Chakdara. Long before daybreak we had crossed the Indus atAttock. As the narrow-gauge train was carrying me slowlythrough the breadth of ancient Gandhara, the classicallybarren hill ranges towards Swat and Buner greeted me inthe early morning. From far away to the east the greatmass of Mount Mahaban sent its farewell just as the sunrose, a familiar vision to me, and yet quite as imposing asin the days before I had set foot on its heights in 1904 asthe first European to explore the alleged site of AlexandersAornos. The rain of the night had laid the dust all overthe big fertile valley and beautifully cleared the serratedoutlines of the rugged ranges which stand guard over itagainst the trans-border.
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•^ V V #1 MALAKAND AND CHAKDARA 13 From the little station of Dargai, where the railway-line fitly ends within a fortified outwork, the tonga carriedme up rapidly to the Malakand Pass, now crowned by-frowning forts and walls. The Political Agents Bungalow,where Major S. H. Godfrey, CLE., hospitably- received me,was full of cherished reminiscences from visits I had paidthere to Colonel Deane before and after the last great tribalrising. Major Godfreys kind forethought had arranged alldetails of transport and escort for the crossing of Swat andDir. So there was little to discuss now, and plenty of timeleft to enjoy the glorious view which opens from the steepbare hillside into the rocky defile north of the Malakandand across the rich Swat Valley beyond (Fig. i). In all clearness I saw again the blood-drenched gorgesand slopes covered with huge boulders where the Pathantribes had in that fateful summer of 1897 delivered theirdesperate attacks night after night. Crater Camp, then sohero

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