File:Rock-climbing in the English Lake District (1900) (14590709840).jpg

Identifier: cu31924103707968 (find matches)
Title: Rock-climbing in the English Lake District
Year: 1900 (1900s)
Authors: Jones, Owen Glynne Abraham, George Dixon, 1872- Abraham, Ashley Perry, 1876-1951 Wordsworth Collection
Subjects: Mountaineering
Publisher: Keswick, Cumberland, G.P. Abraham
Contributing Library: Cornell University Library
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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ers gripping theother, until the latter is felt to be good enough for apull towards the ridge. The transfer of the rightfoot into the crack on the left is critical. I prefer toeffect the passage without boots, as the toes can feelso much better where the crack is deepest. Thenthe outside edge a yard away to the left is withinreach of the hand, and the leader, cut off fromfurther assistance below, must manage very carefullyto climb on to the ridge. His holds are obvious ; the difficulty is not somuch in finding the way as in keeping to it. For-tunately a little flat platform is now reached, onwhich he can sit in comfort and recover his strengthbefore attacking the next part. It is at about thelevel of the top of the Gable Needle, and Mr.Slingsby tells me it is the spot that the firstclimbers named the Eagles Nest. It is just visibleagainst the sky in the view facing page 153, 3iinches from the foot of the illustration. The awkward Ul < H O Q rt H r/1 M ^; o 03 H l-l a -■I w tH H W
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THE EAGLES NEST RIDGE 161 part first ascended is scarcely twelve feet high, butis exceptionally severe if the leader takes it withoutthe assistance of a second. The consequences of a slip in the next portion ofthe climb are more serious, but probably it is techni-cally less difficult than the lower bit. The EaglesNest is barely large enough for the leader to bracehimself firmly when helping the second man up onthe rope, and he may naturally prefer to mounthigher without assistance rather than peril thesafety of both for the sake of a helping shoulder upthe next piece. There are no belaying pins, andtraversing to either side of the buttress is seeminglyimpossible. If he cannot be certain of holding on tothe rope when a slip occurs to his follower, he hadbetter decide to advance another fifty feet before thesecond man moves from his secure position below.The first ten feet above the Nest are remarkable forsteepness and smallness of holds. If the rocks arecold and the finger tips benumbe

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