File:Narrative of the Earl of Elgin's mission to China and Japan in the years 1857, '58, '59 (1859) (14587410350).jpg

Identifier: narrativeofearlo02olip (find matches)
Title: Narrative of the Earl of Elgin's mission to China and Japan in the years 1857, '58, '59
Year: 1859 (1850s)
Authors: Oliphant, Laurence, 1829-1888
Subjects: Elgin, James Bruce, Earl of, 1811-1863
Publisher: Edinburgh W. Blackwood
Contributing Library: Robarts - University of Toronto
Digitizing Sponsor: University of Toronto

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Etna. Accord-ing to Japanese accounts, it has not been active forupwards of a century. Altering our course for thislandmark, so worthy the great city of Yedo, we madeout shortly on our starboard beam the Isles Brisees,and near them the active volcano of Vries, with apuff of smoke resting above it as though a shell hadburst upon its apex. Our immediate destination was Simoda, but itsnarrow entrance on that bay-indented coast wassomewhat difficult to find. As we neared the shorewe observed numerous craft dodging in and outof harbours, and playing at hide-and-seek roundbold green headlands and behind rocky islets ; and atlast we opened the snug-looking bay of Simoda, andglided into its peaceful waters between shores heavilyclothed with timber, and resplendent with brilliantfoliage. Deep coves invited the tempest-tossed fisher-man to calm security, the entrance guarded by rocks,the shores feathered to the waters edge, and the wateritself clear ?ts crystal, and alive with glancing fishes.
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DANGEROUS HARBOUR. 71 We only gazed wistfully into these tempting retreats,too small for anything but a fishing-boat, and steamedgently on into the tranquil harbour, in which twolarge rocks, rising from its centre, are a picturesquebut most inconvenient feature. One of these, calledCentre Island, is perforated with a cavern and crownedwith trees. The water is deep all round it, and aslong as the wind is not blowing from the south-east,is perfectly smooth. To the unwary visitor the harbour seems theperfection of security, so snugly embayed; whileabove it the hills rise in tumbled masses, surround-ing the little town, and giving birth to the riverthat winds its sluggish course through a valley thatmight be in fairyland, to the sea. With a sullenplunge the anchor falls, into the water deep and bluewithin a few yards of the shore, and sends a throb offresh excitement through our veins, as we gaze withecstasy on the lovely scene around us, and prepareto explore its unknown charms. CHAPTER

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