File:Frances (Appleton) Longfellow to Robert East Apthorp, 6 February 1836 (03874aa2-93e1-4e66-aa5f-740e132fcdc4).jpg

Manuscript letter

Archives Number: 1011/002.001-006#001

Marseilles. Feb 6th 1836. –
Hotel Beauveau. [sic]

Trusting to luck my dear Robert that you are still in America I will undertake to give you an account of all that we have been about for this fortnight, past knowing how glad you will be to hear of our safe arrival at the other end of this big Country France. And this too is one of your home’s & my letter shall be doubly welcome coming from the neighbourhood of so many warm hearts to whom you are attracted. Is not that a sort of French idea. Trully [sic] I have been chattering French so much to-day (after a fashion!) & have heard so much more that good honest straight forward English forgets to stand its ground, tho after all isn’t it worth more than all this paté-foie-gras concoction at pretty conceits & delicate entre-mets of words which make up this langue Français? I passed quite an agreeable winter at Paris tho she put on few of her smiles for us & was in a constant Cinderella-like disguise of mud, rain & brouillards. But having our honey with us we enjoyed many cosy quiet evenings independent of the désagrémens of Influenzas of which we had all a full share. We undertook too to complain a little of the severe, cold weather which has been remarkably so throughout Europe but the winter in America has been such a happy escape for us that we can say nothing of our experience here. It is truly discouraging that your fate should have been to arrange this season for your trial of our frigid climate. I trust sincerely your kind Mother has had no cause to be anxious on your account. Probably in 20 years there might not be similar weather. How can I tell you how many raptures I went into at the Louvre & the Italian [p. 2] Opera? You know I am never backward in feeling enthusiasm, but often in expressing it when I feel it, & you may be sure there was not a divine expression of Raphael’s or a déchivant tone of Grisi’s that did not go as straight to my soul as if that was their mission on Earth. – If you had heard a stranger say that would you not think it affectation? The fear of being thought (that absurd phrase!) affected has never yet sealed my tongue to my friends but how are we ever doomed to the conventional, icy phrases of moderation when we fear others know no other? The French dash off with some ½ dozen “magnifiques,” “superbes,” & “divins,” using the same superlatives for a dinner, a horse, or a picture, & thus escape the accusation of any particular affectation. How came I on this “tack”? We were only once at the French Opera & that time saw Robert le Diable in all its ghastly horror & theatrical magnificence. The music was ravissante & tho there are no extraordinary singers: & “la trompette guerriere reminded me of old times. I cannot imagine for you a greater delight (in its way) than your first hearing of Grisi. Nothing can rival the effect of that mighty rushing flood of song with which she deluges the air & still so full of feeling, so natural, so free from tortured skill. Then Rubini, La blache, Tamburini!! Our journey from Paris here was rather long but on the whole very well enjoyed considering we did’nt see the sun but twice the whole way. We have two very comfortable & roomy travelling carriages & with nice books when the conversation flags & equally nice cold chicken & Burgundy when our appetite rises on account of an early breakfast the days have slid by bravely. At Lyons we halted for 2 days & tho’ we were enchanted with its picturesque hills & Roman antiquities were very glad to escape its incessant brouillards. By way of variety we came from there to Avignon down the Rhone in a horrible steamer, which had such lack of accomadation [sic] that we kept in our carriages entirely [p. 3] for comfort. We made the acquaintance of a very pretty Ambassadress who is going with her husband to Greece & we became quite good friends before we parted. How pleasant often are these chance acquaintances? We were very much pleased with Agignon & passed a morning at Vaucluse which is a little Eden. –
A bright balmy atmosphere welcomed us at Nismes & I could imagine the climate as fine as it is reported. Its very deliciousness sent a pang to my breast when I thought how changed were all things now since the time when I anticipated seeing it – “as a drowning wretch catches at straws.” How strange that I should yet see it, tho’ with eyes that had known the bitterness of hoping in vain. Perhaps it is well that it can never have the association of being the spot where Hope died forever. - We were not so much pleased with the situation of Nismes as Avignon. It looks flat & unpicturesque but what a Rome it is in the way of noble antiquities” The people appear to be most hospit[torn off] from an amusing specimen we had of their politeness.” The Gene[torn off] lady giving a hall over our room to the Prefects & all the great characters of the place, made an entrée upon us with her spouse to invite us to ascend & join the party, sur le champ, with the encouraging promise that: “We speak English!” This excessive hospitality was chiefly [crossed out: for] an excuse to make a tremendous noise over our head all night which they did right merrily after easing their consciences by asking our pardon. Day before yesterday we arrived at Marseilles & were shut up the first day by a pouring rain amusing ourselves with looking at the ships which rear their forest of masts directly before our windows. Last night Mrs Fitch took us to her box in the Opera where we saw Gustave very well performed & were much amused with the bal masqué where an English Captain 8 feet high & one of the Marseilles beaux disguised as a bear caused peals of merriment. Madame [p. 4 bottom] Fitch seems very agreeably & has made us au fait in all Marseilles’ doings already. They had lately a fancy ball here at which she appeared as Madame Pompadour in a blaze of diamonds. I asked her to point me out at the Opera your friends the Miss Hettes places but they were not there. I am very desirous to see them & if so, shall not fail to give your remembrance. Mrs Fitch told me that the youngest (?) is really engaged to that young Officer you heard of. They seem to be a very [p. 4 top] hospitable kind people in this sea-washed town, & have nearly overwhelmed us with invitations, not more than ½ of which can we accept as we are desirous to get to Italy & shall leave in a few days, tho whether by steam or land we have not yet decided as contrary advices meet us at every corner. This morning – a most heavenly one, as warm & balmy as June we strolled up the mountain to the fortress & saw the Meditterranean [sic] in all its azure loveliness with those graceful [p. 1 cross] pointed sails peculiar to the South dotting it like snow-flakes. I was disappointed in the beauty of Marseilles – from this height it has a most scorched barren appearance. I should think there might be a very pleasant society here but it has little other attraction. The Cholera has withered it sadly.
All before us is now bright & joyful – to be on the threshold of Italy is no every-day excitement. The delicious breath of southern skies of which today has given me a puff assures me that I am soon to inhale an atmosphere which will renew both physical & mental strength. Why was I not born in the land of the South? I will not say that those Presentiments I was so unwise as to trouble myself with the other side of the water have deserted me forever. But they never disturb me now & I am now unkind to remind you that I have ever been so foolish. I hope you will fall in with Miss Sedgwick sometime or other while we are gone for she has a heart so overflowing with all that is good & kind that I should wish with+Z161 all my friends (not in the world’s sense) to know & appreciate her. Have you heard from your friend Mr Slocum? I hope he is safe from all the horrors of loneliness which he dreaded so much.
You would laugh to see with what a gout Tom enjoys les plaisirs de gourmanderie. I am constantly reminded of your earnest discussions [p. 2 cross] on the road to Belchertown. He tries to instill into us (disinterestedly) an appreciation of the refinements of French cookery & succeeds oftener than he hopes perhaps. We are all well – Mary exerts herself in antiquity-hunting with true Antiquarian zeal – Father amuses himself with the manufactures, Tom with the dinners, & I with each in their turn. The lights are all going out – a hint that I have written lengthily I hope to hear from you soon. God bless you my dear brother. Do not forget my affectionate remembrance to your Parents.
Truly yrs
Fanny.
ADDRESSED: R. E. APTHORP ESQ. / NORTHAMPTON. MASS. / U.S.A.
POSTMARK: NEW-YORK / SHIP / APL 7
POSTMARK: T[ILLEGIBLE] / 10 / FEVR / 1836 / (78)
ENDORSED: MARSEILLES FEB. 6- 1836 / F.E.A. / RECD NEW YORK

• Keywords: correspondence; france; paris; travel; frances elizabeth (appleton) longfellow; Correspondence (1011/002); (LONG-SeriesName); Letters from Frances Longfellow (1011/002.001); (LONG-SubseriesName); 1836 (1011/002.001-006); (LONG-FileUnitName)