File:Florists' review (microform) (1912) (16480405967).jpg

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Title: Florists' review (microform)
Identifier: 5205536_34_2 (find matches)
Year: 1912 (1910s)
Authors:
Subjects: Floriculture
Publisher: Chicago : Florists' Pub. Co
Contributing Library: University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign
Digitizing Sponsor: University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign

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16 The Florists^ Review . Adgost 13, 1914. 3C 3C 3C 1 i r SEASONABLE I ^ SUGGESTIONS i ac ac ic Lilium Candidum. The war in Europe will probably delay the arrival of Lilium candidum. This is to be regretted, because, un- like all other lilies, it commences soon after the bulbs are matured to make new roots and leaves. For this reason it is to be feared that any hampers or cases which have been packed and which, due to lack of transportation facilities, are held up at the docks in France, will be seriously damaged, if not ruined entirely. The true, broad- petaled form of L. candidum comes from the north of France, usually arriv- ing here early in September. Serious delays in arrival are a certainty, and when the bulbs do arrive it would be well to pot immediately and not blame the seedsmen for what is surely far beyond their control. Candidums should not be grown in small pots; 8-inch and 10-inch are the best. These will contain three to six bulbs each, according to size. Just cover the bulbs with soil. Do not water unless the soil is quite dry. Stand the pots outdoors in the full sun, but protect from heavy rains. If the pots are heavily soaked at once, there is danger of many of the scales, or possibly the entire bulb, rotting. Use a bed of sand below the bulbs and fill in between the scales with the same material. Formosa Lilies. While the Formosa lily grows too tall in the main to be useful as a pot plant, for cutting fr.om Christmas until Easter it is invaluable. The bulbs are due to arrive soon and should be potted at once in 5-inch and 6-inch pots accord- ing to their size. There are consider- able variations in Formosa lilies. Like all seedlings, the flowers are sometimes pure white inside and out, while in other cases the outside of the trumpet is almost as dark as L. Brownii. Great points in favor of Formosa lilies are their comparative freedom from disease, the fact that they naturally flower early and the further fact that the flowers can be cut with long stems. Lilium Speciosum. Where a crop of Lilium speciosum is wanted from December to February, cold storage bulbs should be potted now. Do not place single bulbs in a pot, as in the case of L. longiflorum. Usdfe 7-inch and 8-inch pots, standing the bulbs as closely as possible in the pots in a cellar or frame, where they will be shaded and comparatively cool. If the soil is at all dry, water well; then go somewhat slow on watering until the plants are in active growth. Speciosums will start to grow quickly and must be gradually inured to light as growths appear. For cutting they will be found to do well in boxes con- taining six inches of soil. The speciosums potted last winter will now be flowering. The blooms may come out more rapidly than is desired. It is a good plan, therefore, to stand some in a cool, dry cellar. Pick off all pollen masses to keep the flowers clean. After all the flowers are cut the bulbs may be planted outdoors^ where they will give useful cutting late next sum- mer. Plant the bulbs a foot deep for best results. Japanese Iris. In order to have the best success with Japanese iris, they should be trans- planted during the present month. They do best in well enriched soil in which they can be kept well watered, or even flooded, up to the flowering period, and in winter be kept dry at the root. The soil, therefore, should be well drained. It is dampness at the root in winter, and not cold, which kills 80 many Japanese iris. Show Ptiargoniums. Show pelargoniums should now be well ripened, after a resting of some weeks on' their sides in the full sun, and they can be stood up and pruned back rather hard. Do not shake out. Repot the plants at once. Water them moderately and spray freely. As soon as they start to break freely is the time to overhaul them. Shake the soil nearly clean away, and start in smaller Sized pots than they have been growing in; also cut back the long roots at this time. Mignonette. There is no advantage in sowing mignonette earlier than the middle of August, as the plants started during so hot a period will start to flower, in spite of pinching back, at a time when the flowers have little value. Sow the seeds directly in the beds or benches a foot apart each way; Sow more seeds than are needed and thin out to- two or three in each patch. The soil should be well enriched with cow or horse manure and not less than six inches deep. Solid beds are preferable to benches, as they ensure cooler condi- tions for the roots and a more even moisture, but good mignonette can be produced in benches. Mignonette re quires a low temperature. The winter minimum should run from 40 to 45 degrees. THE DBACSNA AND CBOTON. The two places of the Robert Craig Co. require close attention to keep pace with the cultural ideas of the day. The stock grown there and the methods em- ployed express the ideas of some of the brightest minds in our profession. The draespna is undoubtedly the
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Dracaena Ctidgii,

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Flickr tags
InfoField
  • bookid:5205536_34_2
  • bookyear:1912
  • bookdecade:1910
  • bookcentury:1900
  • booksubject:Floriculture
  • bookpublisher:Chicago_Florists_Pub_Co
  • bookcontributor:University_of_Illinois_Urbana_Champaign
  • booksponsor:University_of_Illinois_Urbana_Champaign
  • bookleafnumber:132
  • bookcollection:microfilm
  • bookcollection:additional_collections
  • BHL Collection
Flickr posted date
InfoField
1 March 2015


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