File:Florists' review (microform) (16491571860).jpg

Title: Florists' review (microform)
Identifier: 5205536_19_1 (find matches)
Year: [1] (s)
Authors:
Subjects: Floriculture
Publisher: Chicago : Florists' Pub. Co
Contributing Library: University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign
Digitizing Sponsor: University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign

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January 17, 1907. The Weekly Florists" Review^ 619
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Rooting Rose Cuttings at the Establishment of Peter Reinberg, Chicago. growers, eliminating none because of their supposed tenderness. Bather bear in mind the colors most desired. Plant in beds or rows. If conditions are right the product should be considerable the first summer. In the fall after hard frosts and be- fore winter, usually in Ohio about No- vember 1, carefully loosen the soil around the stem of each plant; bend the plant flat to the ground and cover en- tirely with at least two inches of soil; three inches will be better. When com- pleted, the bed or row should show no signs of the contents. On top of this place a good coating of strawy manure. It is better to defer this last operation for a couple of weeks, or until the ground is frozen an inch or more in depth. Evergreen boughs, corn fodder or other litter on top of the whole will be an advantage in the northern lati- tudes, but not absolutely necessary. The object is not to prevent the roses from freezing, but to rather prevent their thawing on every bright day dur- ing winter. The reasons for this are apparent and need no explanation. The following year, when outdoor vegetation shows signs of spring, un- cover the plants carefully and straighten by firming the soil with the foot. Then use the knife fearlessly. Cut everything back to mere stubs, and short stubs at that. Leave nothing over two inches from main stem. In this manner^ you concentrate all growth into the base buds. The tenderest roses should winter per- fectly in this manner any place in the United States. In our northern lati- tudes there are localities where they are subject to thaws and warm spells in winter. There I would advise a heavier covering for reasons above stated. Re- peat the process from year to year, bearing in mind to loosen the soil around the stems before bending down. The reasons for this are apparent. Use the knife more freely each season, aiming to hold the bushes to a medium size. In fact, they should not be allowed to in- crease much after the second season. To maintain fertility depend upon the top dressing of manure and bone meal. I should perhaps say that while all varieties will prove hardy under this treatment, not all varieties will pro'duce good results. There are some sorts of teas and hybrid teas that are especially good outdoor bedders. These are what you want to tie to. S. C. Tempun. SWEET PEAS CLOSING. What is the best way to keep sweet peas after being cut? Mine close tight after being'cut. S. P. Sweet peas open very slowly in dark, dull weather and unless fully open will close on the plant about 5 p. m. We think you have picked the flowers before they were sufficiently open. Unlike many of our commercial flowers, which increase in size when cut and put in water, the sweet peas, especially cut before they are fully out, do not develop a particle after being cut. Let your flowers be more fully open and I don't think you will complain of their closing. W. S. one of the ways has been the frosting of the show windows. Burning gas in the windows to keep off the frost is un- satisfactory. Many storemen run electric fans in the windows and this in a meas- ure keeps down the ice, but it is detri- mental to the stock in the window. For this purpose the Pharmaceutische Zei- tung recommends the application of a mixture consisting of fifty-five grams of glycerine dissolved in one liter of sixty- two per cent alcohol, containing, to im- prove the odor, some oil of amber. 'As soon as the mixture clarifies, it is rubbed over the inner surface of the glass. This treatment, it is claimed, not only pre- vents the formation of frost, but also stops sweating.' PREVENTS FROST ON WINDOWS. One cold day last winter when B. Eschner, whom everybody knows, was sit- ting, with his ear muffs down, his mittens and his rubbers on, behind a frost-cov- ered hotel window waiting for train time, he ran across the following in a paper: This has been a bad winter for the storekeeper in more ways than one. And LATE BULBS, I have a number of bulbs left from my fall sales'and have net had time to get them out and would like to know if there is any way I can use them. Can I get them ready for Kaster? I have tu- lips, narcissi, Dutch and Roman hya- cinths. W. C.W. You can plant your tulips, hyacinths and narcissi in flats three inches deep and place them in a frame and cover with three or four inches of soil. They will be in fine order for Easter forcing and you will find the quality of flowers quite as good as those you planted in October and November. As a proof of this, some years ago it froze up before we had filled an order for a customer in the fall and we had to wait until our January thaw, which usu- ally occurs. It was the middle of Janu- ary before we got them into the ground and they gave us splendid flowers in April and May. Get your bulbs into good, friable soil at once and you are all right. W. 8.

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