File:Costume- fanciful, historical, and theatrical (1906) (14760121916).jpg

Identifier: costumefancifulh00ariauoft (find matches)
Title: Costume: fanciful, historical, and theatrical
Year: 1906 (1900s)
Authors: Aria, Eliza (Davis) 1866-
Subjects: Costume
Publisher: London Macmillan
Contributing Library: Robarts - University of Toronto
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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and Louis IX.of France appears to have been quite lenienttowards extravagance, and to have had a nicetaste of his own, judging from the picture whichrepresents him wearing a velvet cap, a tunicopen at the neck, and a robe of brown em-broidered with red flowers, and possessing longsleeves trimmed with fur. Fur was amongst hisweaknesses evidently, for a deep cape of furcovers his shoulders in another picture, where heis wearing a fur-trimmed robe and has indulgedhimself with red stockings and black shoes.This was the King who urged his courtiers todress themselves well and neatly, so that theirwives would love them the more, and their peopleesteem them higher. Philip the Fair, or Unfair, of France decreedthat No damoiselle, if she be not chatelaine ordame owning 2000 levies yearly, shall have morethan one pair of gowns per year ; and if she be, sheshall have two pairs and no more—an edict whichwas, of course, defied fearlessly. Sumptuary lawscome somehow to be disregarded, proving the
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I\ THE THIKTEE.NTH CEXTUKY. Ill IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 23 courage of women in defence of their idol —fashion. Very curious is a coiifure which obtained inthe reign of Philip the Bold, consisting of a cover-ing like a plate in outline worn upon the head, witha veil falling over the cheeks and pendent at theback. Far more attractive must have been thehead-dress of peacocks feathers which obtainedabout that time, when prodigality began to assertitself defiantly in magnificent jewels and gownsof condal emblazoned with rubies and sapphires ;and when silken hose, gold and silver embroidery,and furred trimmings were amongst the attainableand the attained. Lavishness ruled in Italy in the thirteenthcentury, when women wore long full gowns ot silkvelvet brocade, and tissues of gold and silver, andwoollen materials dyed violet or scarlet. Theyhad very large sleeves, their hands often beingmore than half covered with these, which touchedthe ground ; and ornaments of pearls and bordersof gol

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