File:Costume- fanciful, historical, and theatrical (1906) (14596606227).jpg

Identifier: costumefancifulh00ariauoft (find matches)
Title: Costume: fanciful, historical, and theatrical
Year: 1906 (1900s)
Authors: Aria, Eliza (Davis) 1866-
Subjects: Costume
Publisher: London Macmillan
Contributing Library: Robarts - University of Toronto
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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border termed dagged,in a fashion condemned by Henry II. Normanladies wore their hair plaited, the braids oftenincased in silk or bound round with ribbon andfinished off with three curls ; but towards the endof the twelfth century the hair was frequentlyheld in a network of gold set with stones. The clergy had much to say on the subject ofthe long beards which reappeared during the reignof Henry I. ; and that one, more forcible thanelegant in his denunciations, who described themen of his time as filthy goats, has for the sole-cism gone down to posterity with the priest who,preaching such a moving sermon on the subjectthat king and courtiers wept, took advantage ofthe impression he had made, drew out a largepair of scissors that he had concealed in his sleeve,and cropped the entire assemblage. During the latter half of the twelfth century achange for the better came over the spirit of dress,which was now marked by a greater reticence.The extravagant cuff disappeared, and sleeves were
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IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY. A CORONET. rr IN EARLY MEDI^^VAL TIMES 13 worn tight and fastened at the wrist. x\n efFigy ofQueen Berengaria, in the Abbey of IEspan, showsthe queen with flowing locks partlycovered by a kerchief, surmounted c^^^^^by a gold crown ; her robe is held ^S;)together at the neck by a largecircular brooch set with preciousstones, her mantle hanging ahnost to her feet behind,Q while a small aumoniere is pendent from a■f:^ beautiful girdle. For just so much detailand no more would I pin my faith to a ^ monumental sculptor as a fashion historian.Green was the favourite colour of the robeA BROOCH, ^j-, (.j^g reign of John, and there is a kingswarrant for two green robes for the queen, eachto consist of two ells of cloth, while there exists aregister showing that a green robe lined withcondal cost sixty shillings ; so common, in fact,was the wearing of the green that Longchamp, thearrogant Bishop of Ely, when he was forced to flvthe kingdom to escape Johns rage, disguis

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