File:At Rainier Summit Crater - Flickr - brewbooks.jpg

This photo is from one of my fellow climber - Jeff. My camera was toast on summit day (and we were in a storm the following day) I really am happy to get a picture from the summit, thanks Jeff!

Here is my journal for the climb to the summit: Got up on the night of 6 June, about 11 PM after some fitful sleep. I was mostly dressed, it had been quite windy as we "slept". I popped out and headed to the food tent. Our lead guide Greg had hot water going, and I had two packs of instant oatmeal. It was darn good. Had some black coffee anfd then back to tent to grab gear. Got my harness secure, headlamp on. Don't want to forget anything!

Back out and we all assemble just above the tents. I am on Jess's rope team - with Dmitri and Jeff. We have a brief interlude while the other teams rope up.I take a chance to just look around, the first time tonight. It is cold and there is quite a wind coming down from the mountain. The stars are brilliant, so clear, so near. Just after midnight, and it is time to get to work heading up the Emmons glacier. We move out slowly and surely heading up the mountain, using our headlamps to navigate. I see pools of light ahead of me starting up the mountain.

It's some work, but not too bad as my pack is only about 10 kg. (22 lbs.). We go up slow and steady. My focus is just in front of me - no missed steps. First break is after about an hour. I feel great. The stars are brilliant, Get my puffy down parka on, it is cold and windy. Sit on my pack and drink some water. Eat a little snack. We are last of four rope teams. In last, leave last. After about 10 minutes: puffy off, last sip of water, pack on and head up the hill.

We are entering the corridor and the glacier is steeper. Climb methodically and steady for the next hour and have our next break. Stars are so visible, it's a great night.

Now, it seems steeper still and the wind is really howling. I am thankful that we have goggles, they were necessary. Start to try some sideways walking. We cross a snow bridge over a crevasse. I am starting to feel tired; but not too bad. At our third break (about 330), a couple of people turn back with one of our guides. Our remaining three rope teams head up. It's steep and hard; now I am very physically tired. Have to pull in mental reserves. The rosy fingers of dawn are emerging on this section.

Next break - I am physically blown. I debate whether to continue; but I do. It is steep, I am tired, and I pull in mentally. The wind is blowing hard up here at first light, it is like a beautiful white desert up here at first light. I stumbled a few times but pull myself up. Our guide Jess asks: "Do you want to keep going?" I answer:"YES". Jess says: "THEN LETS GO!" And I go. And go, one step at a time. Then I see another team, then are on the crater rim, it's about 500 feet. I can make it, and do.

Get up on the crater rim - and just lay down for a minute. Really pretty tired, just lay down for a minute. Get up, and shake hands with Jess and Greg. I was very happy to get up here!. Start looking around, it is a beautiful early morning. There is the crater below us, and I notice a lot of clear ice around us. The crater is much larger than I thought. I would like to explore up here - but not today. In the distance I see Mount Adams above the clouds, I climbed that with my friend Roger in 2003. 'd like to do that again. Tried getting my camera to work. No luck even though it was in my inner layer. I checked after the climb - it was -12 C (10 F) with about 65 km/hr (40 mph) wind. One of my rope mates snapped my picture (which I hope to get one day..) After about 10 minutes it is time to head down.