File:A scientific guide to practical cutting (1873) (14784296055).jpg

Identifier: scientificguidet00glen (find matches)
Title: A scientific guide to practical cutting
Year: 1873 (1870s)
Authors: Glencross, William. (from old catalog)
Subjects: Tailoring
Publisher: New York, W. Glencross
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: Sloan Foundation

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^ the scale as by divisions of thebreast measure ; and we should prefer theuse of the scale, as in the larger sizes it(the scale) will curtail the size of the vestto the dimensions required, and it is moreconvenient. But at the waist, the realmeasure should be applied, so as to give itsufficient width at this part, no matter howsmall the waist measure may be. the frontof vest should never be brought inside ofthe point 9 at bottom, but the extra mate-rial should be taken out as V ; this isfound necessary to prevent the vest raisingup in front. In cases where the scale isused for cutting a garment for a tall andslim man, a scale a size larger should beused for the lengths than for widths ; andif drafted by divisions, the bottom of syeand natural waist should be lengthened inproportion to the length required. Figure1 is clerical or English style of vest, andis drafted in the same manner as Figure 8, Viate /9 f « -3 . 0
Text Appearing After Image:
15 lit Plate XIX.) 41 ■ with the following exception : that.) gfad-ualed inches, or i-(3th, is marked downfVoni 0 to locate the fVout of neck-gorii-o,and there is 1 inch added in front of lineat neck to 10, and 2 inches at front ofbreast to 11. At this point we vary fromIt to 2t in i)roportiou to the chest of thecustomer ; the collar should be cut to litthe gorge, according to model. In this diagram we also represent a vestof the straight form, without collar, which isusualljcalled the French style of vest. Thereader will at a glance see the points of tkisvest. There is a little collar behind, repre-sented by the long curved piece, which isdesigned to give spring to this part of theneck gorge; the points of front of breast areindicated bj^ the numbers on the diagram,marked 11 behind, and I0?r in front. Howto draft back, Figure 4: draw constructionline from 0 to 20h, square in top ; markdown from 0, lOl inches, which should befrom 1 to li inches more than from 0 to !)at bottom of sye

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